Foundation garment construction



H. J. DUBNER FOUNDATION GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. l0, 1952 Aug. 23, 1955 United States Patent Office 2,715,733 Patented Aug. 23, 1955 FOUNDATON GARMENT CGNSTRUCTIGN Harry Jay Dubner, New York, N. Y.

Application Ilanuary lll, 1952, Serial No. 265,874

3 Claims. (Cl. 2--42) This invention relates to improvements in breast pocket or cup constructions Such as are incorporated in womens undergarnient foundations as for example, in brassieres, corsets and the like, to enhance the bust ligure of the wearer by retaining and comfortably supporting the breasts positioned to conform with the prevailing recognized fashion requirements or for otherwise effectuating a desired bust contour. More particularly the invention is directed to such breast pocket or cup constructions for use by women having small or deficient sized or shaped natural busts requiring padded or built-in portions to accomplish said conformance with fashion requirements or to effectuate said desired contour.

Among the objects of the invention is to generally improve undergarment form foundations and breast pocket or cup constructions of the character described which shall comprise few and easily formed parts that are readily assembled to include a padded or built-in breast pocket or cup construction, which shall be relatively cheap to manufacture from readily obtainable inaterials to provide a relatively light weight simplified form foundation undergarment, which can be worn with comfort yet eliminates deficiencies in form and aids in the production of desired enhancement of the visual appearance of the bust region of the wearer, which shall assist in simulating in size, contour and configuration bust regions of natural and normally proportion recognized as fashionable, and which shall be practical and eicierit to a high degree in use.

Other objects of this invention will in part be obvious and in part hereinafter pointed out.

The invention accordingly consists of features of construction, combination of elements and arrangement of parts which will be exemplified in the apparatus hereinafter described and of which the scope of the application will be indicated in the claims following.

In the accompanying drawing in which possible illustrative embodiments of the invention are shown,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view showing a brassiere with shoulder straps worn on the bust region of a girlish gure constructed to embody the invention, the improved breast pockets or cups being incorporated as a padded structure to enlarge small breasts and to otherwise conform in contour the appearance of the bust portion of the wearers ligure to a prevailing desired fashion.

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary enlarged front view showing details of one of the improved breast pockets or cups of the brassiere shown in Fig. l, portion of said pocket being broken away to expose the interior structure.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken on lines 3-3, in Fig. 1, a normal contour configuration of the Wearers small breast being shown in dot-and-dash lines.

Fig. 4 shows enlarged four pattern blanks cut ready for assembling a breast pocket or cup such as incorporated in the brassiere shown in Figs. 1 to 3.

Fig. 5 is a front elevational view of an areola or nipple abutment patch piece made up before incorporated in brassieres or the like foundation undergarments, as a modified form of the invention to serve as a built-in element adapted to be used instead of the similar portion shown in Figs. l to 4.

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional View taken on lines 6-6 of the abutment portion shown in Fig. 5, the structure of which is formed of helically wound resilient strip material.

Fig. 7 is a front elevational View showing a further modied form of said abutment patch piece made up and adapted to be used instead of that shown in Figs. l to 4, or that shown in Figs. 5 and 6.

Fig. 8 is a cross-sectional view of the areola or nipple abutment patch piece taken on lines 8-8 on Fig. 7 showing the formation thereof.

In order to provide relative inexpensive womens foundation undergarments of readily obtainable sheet material of the character and for the purposes described, improved breast pocket or cup constructions incorporated in such undergarments are provided to embody the invention, and as shown may be used in brassiere manufacture one of which is denoted in Fig. 1 at 10 and shown worn on the bust region of a girlish figure F. The latter may have a so-called natural small breasts B which the wearer deems necessary to be given an enlarged appearance to conform with the recognized prevailing fashion, dress sizing and styling lines.

Brassiere 10 may include duplicate front panel members 11 each having a framing portion 11a made of any suitable textile cloth material such as muslin, nylon, rayon or the like sewn together by center seam 11b and if desired formed with a suitable small elastic triangular shaped gusset inert 12 terminating lower portion of said seam 11b as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Said framing portions 11a may each have incorporated over the region of the breast B of the wearer, a pocketing portion or cup 13 which in the form shown in Figs. 1 to 4 is made of a suitable relatively soft pliable padding or quilted sheet material cut into blanks 14, 15 and 20 shown in Fig. 4, and sewn together in the manner thereinafter described. In wearing brassiere 19, said padding or quilted material may be made sufhcient thickness to provide pocketing portions 13 with a contour to bring up the size where necessary, and shape of said small breast to that recognized and regarded as having a desired normal appearance from the standpoint of fashion and wearing apparel styling.

Blank 14, which as seen from Figs. l and 2, forms the upper or breast cover section of said pocketing portion 13, may -be patterned to provide a relatively shallow arcuately shaping bulge seam forming edge having curved portion 14a followed by portion 14b, as seen in Fig. 4. The remaining edges 14e of said blank 14 may be double stitched as at 13a when incorporated in the front panel member 11 as seen in Fig. 2, a finishing seam joint covering tape 13b overlying said stitches 13a being provided on the rear or interior side of panel member 11 as is clear from Fig. 3.

Blank 15, which forms the lower or breast uplift section of pocketing portion 13, may be patterned to provide a relatively steep arcuately shaping bulge seam having successive curved portions 15a and 15b, for cooperating with said edge curved portions 14a and 14b, respectively, of blank 14 in forming pocketing portions 13, the remaining edges 15e being secured in position when incorporated in front panel member 11 by double stitching as at 13], a finishing seam joint covering tape 13d overlying said stitches 137 being provided on the rear or interior side of panel member 11. Said seam joint covering tapes 13b and 13d interconnect pocketing portions 13 with said panel member framing portions 11a.

As shown in Figs. 1 to 3, blanks 14 and 15 in forming Vpocketing portion 13 are secured together with shallow curved portions 14a and 14b in abutment with steep curved portions edges 15a and 15b, respectively, in any suitable manner as by overlocked orfaggotting stitching 13 e for providing the bulge shaping seam 13j. Thelatter may if desired be provided with an exteriorally applied covering tape 13g extending across the width of both front panels 11 and secured in position by double stitching 13h as is clear fromFigs. 1 to 3. Y Y To complete the construction of brassiere 10, there may be provided side panels 17 at opposite ends of said front panel members 11. Said panels 17 may be made of the same textile sheet material as framing portion 11a and extended to encircle the wearers -bust of gure F. Said brassiere is adjustably secured in position in any suitable well understoodmanner by fastening means of conjustable straps 18 which pass over the shouldersS of figure F from each of the panel member framing por-tions 11a to a rear extending side of side panel 17.

Brassiere 10 when constructed'as above described and shown in Fig. 1 tends to provide a wearing apparel foundation contour of exterior desirable appearance sought but in some instance may not prove entirely satisfactory for small bust figures wherey -the natural breast B contour fails to snugly nest into pocketing portion 13 as is clear from Fig. 3. To overcome such deficiency, rear side of said pocketing portion 13 has permanently mounted thereto a resilient conical shaped patch piece 19 to extend over -the region of breast areola A. Said patch pieces 19 may be made of the same padded or quilted material as that forming blanks 14 and 15. Said patch pieces 19 may be secured by the rim edges thereof by overlocking Vor faggotting through-stitches 19a, which are visible on the exterior of said pocketing portions 13, and serve to Y emphasize the uplift appearance desired by wearer.

fective hollow conical shape structure for said patch piece 19. It is contemplated that interior surface 19b of said pa-tch piece 19 be shaped and positioned to comfortably tit said breast aerola A therein. Said patch piece 19 then is disposed to resiliently retain Voverlying outer or exterior surface 13]' of pocketing portion 13 project to in full bloom extention to provide said desired configuration appearance. Y Y

klllhere patch piece 19 is found of insuicient thickness to compensatefor the required deficiency to accomplish theaforementioned results then as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, there may be interposed under said patch piece 19, a supplemental conical shaped cushioning liner 21 which is wholly enclosed by said overlooking stitches 19a. As shown-in Figs. 2, 3 and 4, said liner 21 may be -made of any suitable foam rubber or plastic sheet material cut to pattern of blank 22 and 'has arcuate radial edges 22a and '22b which may be curved to correspond to said curved effect against the patch pieces 19 and liners 21, the latter cooperating to retain the pocketing portion 13 fully extended.

From the above description and drawing the utilityof the invention is now apparent. After manufacturing wearing apparel foundation undergarme'nts of character described, such for example as brassiere 10'from the par-ts and in the manner of construction shown in Figs.V 1 Vto 5, and brassiere 1t) may be fitted to a girlish figure F having a small bust, to nest each of'V the breasts B snugly into a pocketing portion 13. 'The side panel fasteners and straps 18 of the brassiereV 10 may be adjusted in the well understood manner and with breast areolas A positioned Said patch pieces 19 and liners 21 when formed as above described and incorporated in pocketing portions 13 produce smooth and even surfaces 13j on the exterior for appearance and also on the interior for comfortably associatingwith small breast portion nested with cushioning to lie against interior surfaces 19b of patch pieces 19, the

outer surfaces 13j of pocketing portions 13 will be resiliently retained to give a desired full bloom natural` sized bust configuration, the breasts B beingV comfortably supported in desired uplift appearing positions.

In Figs. 5 and 6, cushioning abutmentrportion in Vthe form of a helical wound conical structure 39 is shown as a modified construction for use instead of patch pieces 19 with said liners 21 described above.

Each cushioning abutment portion 39 may be made` of a padding or quilted strip or other like resilient material helically wound into conical shape to theapproximate sizeof patch piece 19. Base 39a` of said abutment por-k tion 39 may be secured by overlooking or faggotting stitching in pocketing portion 13 to contact with breast areoia A in the same manner asrdescribed above for patches 19, yas shown in Fig. 3. Instead of providing a liner 2i, however apex 39d of conical cushioning por-V tion 39 may have the stripY end portion thereat extended to provide a loop 39e which may Vserve as a resilient filler for said abutment portion 39 against the interior ,surfaceYV of pocketing portion 13 with said overlooking stitches securing said cushioning abutment portion 39 in position, as is clear from Figs. 2 and 3.

A further modification of cushion abutment portions like patch pieces 19 and liners 21, or that describedy above for abutment portions 39, is shown in' Figs. 7 and 8 each in the form of a conical patch piece 49 having a sponge rubber, plastic or the like elastic sheet'material layer 49a formed with suitable finish facing layer 49h of mercerized cotton or the like, adhered to said material 49a. Said patch pieces 49 may be cut and made Yconical shape from a sized pattern blank in the same manner as described for patch pieces 19. Said elastic material 49a may be skived as at 49e to give patch pieces `49 a tapering cross-section extending toward the base rim 49h thereof as shown in Fig. 8.

Abutment patch pieces 49 may be substituted in the pocketing portion 13 for patches 19 and liners 21, or abutment portion 39 in the same manner as described above for the latter as is clear from Figs.l2 and'3.

Each of theV constructions with either abutment portions 19, 39, or 49 when incorporated in pocketing portion 13 may be used in brassieres 10, syled with orrwithout shoulder straps or in other wearing apparel requiring enhancement of the bust figure suchas in dress corsets, bathing suit or the like.

Y For figures F having breasts B that are to be fitted with undergarment foundations having breastv pocket or cup constructions embodying the invention, and no additional overall enlargement appearance is desired but fashion Vd ictated contour and configuration enhancement is required,Y

such undergarment foundations like brassiere 1t), may be made 'simply with pocketing portion Y13'of textile sheet material instead of padding or quilting, Yand areola abut` ment portions 19, 39, or 49 incorporated in such foundation constructed and arranged in the manner described above. Y .Y Y

It will thus be seen that there is provided an undergarment foundation construction for wearing apparel of the character described whereby the several objects of thisV 5 invention are achieved and which will be well adapted to meet the conditions of practical use.

As various possible embodiments might be made of the above invention, and as various changes might be made in the embodiments above set forth, it is to be understood that all matter herein set forth or shown in the accompanying drawing is to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. In a brassiere construction of the character described having a body encircling band including a pair of framing members formed of relatively thin textile material each encircling and supporting breast pocketing portions formed of sheet material of a relatively heavy thickness with respect to said framing members to uniformly increase the size of a wearers small breast to that of a desired normal appearance, each of said pocketing portions being formed in a conical shape having an apex region and sewed along a periphery thereof to said framing members providing a bulge shaped predetermined uplift full bloom bust contour, a pre-shaped conical abutment piece positioned against an inner surface of each 0f said pocketing portions in the apex region thereof for snugly nesting the areola region of the breast of a wearer thereagainst, said abutment piece being a resilient structure outstandingly extending said apex region of said pocketing portions from the underlying breast areola of the wearer, and stitching provided about a rim edge of said abutment piece passingthrough said bulge shaped bust contour pocketing portion permanently securing said abutment piece to said pocketing portion inner surface.

2. The brassiere construction defined in claim 1, in which an inner facing surface of each of the abutment pieces extends to conform more closely to the size and shape of the contour of the wearers small bust areola region than the inner surface of said pocketing portions, and a resilient liner incorporated between each of said pocketing portions and said abutment pieces.

3. The brassiere construction defined in claim 1, in which said abutment pieces have a helically wound construction of strip material with a projecting extension of said strip material serving to extend said apex region of said pocketing portions.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,600,410 Hartman Sept. 21, 1926 1,942,679 Becker Ian. 9, 1934 2,021,906 Whitaker Nov. 26, 1935 2,147,375 Lazzari Feb. 14, 1939 2,421,561 Hunau .Tune 3, 1947 2,435,860 Wilkenfeld et al. Feb. 10, 1948 2,440,466 Freedman Apr. 27, 1948 2,505,458 Brauer Apr. 25, 1950 FOREIGN PATENTS 724,609 Germany Aug. 31, 1942 317,293 Great Britain Aug. 15, 1929 

